This page brings together complete RockShox MTB suspension forks and the genuine parts to rebuild them: lowers, stanchions, damper cartridges, air shafts and handlebar remotes. First identify your fork, its model, generation, wheel size and travel, or start from the way you ride if you are replacing it entirely.
A suspension fork that bottoms out, leaks oil or no longer locks out does not necessarily need replacing. Seals, bushings and oil are replaced during services; a damper cartridge, an air shaft, a stanchion or damaged lowers can be changed one part at a time, provided you find the exact reference for your generation. A complete replacement makes sense when several key parts are worn at once, when you change wheel or axle standard, or to gain stiffness and travel within the limits of what your frame accepts.
Within the same model, the trim levels, from Silver and Gold at the entry level to Select and Ultimate at the top of the range, differ mainly in their damper cartridge and the number of adjustments.
RockShox parts change from one generation to the next, even under an identical model name. Note the serial number stamped on the fork crown: entered in TrailHead, the brand's online tool, it gives the model code, its generation and the list of compatible parts. Also note the wheel size, the travel, the axle, Boost or not, and the steerer, straight 1 1/8 inch or tapered. In the names, TK refers to an entry-level TurnKey cartridge, RL to rebound adjustment with lockout, and RC to rebound and compression adjustment.
Fitting a cartridge or an air spring requires specific tools and oil: if in doubt, leave it to a workshop.
For the rear of a full suspension bike, see rear shocks; seals, bushings and service kits are grouped in suspension spare parts, and the whole range on the suspension page.
RockShox, a pioneer of the mountain bike suspension fork with the RS-1 and now part of the SRAM group, prints a starting pressure chart on the lowers of its forks and publishes the list of its spare parts for each generation.
Forks from a replaced generation join the suspension outlet, and recently arrived references can be spotted in new arrivals. Winter, when you ride less, is a good time to rebuild a fork.
Look for the serial number on the fork crown and enter it in TrailHead, or scan the QR code found on some models. Failing that, choose the model from the tool's list, specifying the travel and the type of spring.
Start from the value given by the chart printed on the lowers or by TrailHead, according to your weight with your riding kit on. Then check how far the fork sinks when you are in position on the bike, and adjust in small steps with a high-pressure shock pump fitted with a gauge.
The Boost standard widens the front axle spacing to 110 mm, compared with 100 mm previously, for stiffer wheels. The front hub must match: a non-Boost wheel cannot be fitted to a Boost fork without an adapter designed for the purpose.
In cross-country and marathon riding, it lets you lock out the fork on road or track climbs without taking your hands off the bar. It must be compatible with the fork's cartridge: check the reference before ordering.
On rough tracks and long days, a short-travel fork such as the Rudy XPLR filters out impacts and relieves your arms. It adds weight and maintenance: on smooth paths, a rigid fork is often enough.